DAY85: Rest Day @ Montrose

DAY 85: Rest Day, Montrose
Thursday 24th May 2007
(Posted from Kingussie!)

I have been on the phone to O2 for getting on for an hour today. The error message I am getting when I try to send my day's events as an email to the blog is entirely down to O2's servers having gone bonkers. For some reason they are not letting anyone send emails - I can receive them but cannot send.

The nice girls on Customer Service at O2 are apologetic, but they have no idea when the Engineers will have it fixed.

So once more I am typing away, wondering if it will ever get sent...

'Rest Days' are always hectic affairs - I write a list of things to do. I won't bore you to death with the entire list but today I have had a big help with my replacement Exped mattress - as Peter Lumley has contacted Lyon Equipment, the importers and they very kindly have organised a new one to reach me when I get to Kingussie - That's excellent, so my thanks go to Peter and Lyon.

I have changed my schedule slightly; instead of having my next day off at Ft Augustus, I shall take it a little sooner at Kingussie where I am staying with Derek & Marian.

New toiletries purchased and the Thursday Evening Challenge Dinner - and excellent affair where 170 Challengers all sit down together to toast each other's successful crossings.

There was a very sad moment at the start of the meal, when we all remembered Mike Illingworth, who died on his journey up to his start point. Mike was a splendid, kind hearted chap, and I last walked with him in the Cheviots on this Lejog walk. He will be missed.

The evening went on well into the small hours and it was almost dawn when some finally made it to their beds (some not making it at all!) A wonderful end to an excellent Challenge.

On the Challenge itself, I have collected in cheques and cash donations a total of £240, which, when I get to a proper computer I will log onto my Sue Ryder Care page. (I cannot do it from this PDA)

DAY 84: North Water Bridge to Montrose

Wednesday 23rd May 2007
(Posted from Kingussie)
Today: 9.0 miles
Total so far: 1215.1 miles
Percentage Completed: 72.8%

(Click map to enlarge)

As I am getting further along my walk, I am often asked what I think it will be like when I get to the end at John O'Groats. Well, today I had a little taste of it. I walked on my own down to the sea at Montrose at a very unprepossessing spot next to a closed cafe and water splash park. On the way, I had walked past Pringle clad golfers who had looked at my attire and we probably inwardly giggled at each others' ridiculous appearance.

No-one was about and the tide was in so I could only manage to walk down the steps and pad my boots into the sea on the next step down. It was the end of the TGO Challenge and I felt slightly deflated. I had had a wonderful social walk yet I finished alone at a quiet spot to let it all sink in. I understand that John O'Groats is as equally thrilling, so I am bracing myself for the end - indeed I can now dare to think about the end, as I am now well on the way.

I walk back to the Park Hotel to officially complete the Challenge, where I am first in today, and Roger Smith greets me, Patricia sorts me out a glorious cup of tea and I receive my certificate, badge and T-Shirt. The whole Challenge support crew is there, and there is a wonderful buzz about the place.

There is an envelope waiting for me and I open it - It's from Colin, who I met on last year's Challenge and there is a very handsome cheque inside for Sue Ryder - a very kind thought.

This event has been an anchor in my life for the last twelve years. I am so glad I included it - indeed made it the centre point of my LEJOG.

The PDA refuses to let me post to the blog, so I resolve to sort it out tomorrow on my rest-day - I hate technology when it plays up!

DAY 83: Tarfside to North Water Bridge

Tuesday 22nd May 2007
(Posted from Kingussie)
Today: 16.4 miles
Total so far: 1206.1 miles
Percentage Completed: 72.2%

(Click map to enlarge)

A couple of Bacon Butties and a pot of tea set me up for the trip down the North Esk. I fell in with Great, Great Aunty Barbara and Granny Vickie for the morning to Edzell, bimbling along gently, taking in the scenery, slowly changing from the mountains to the gentler pastoral scenery of the Angus coast.

The grasses are a lush green and the trees now full - so I have seen Winter now, through to Summer. The farming is now a mixture of sheep and cattle, and still there are newborn lambs all about.

Edzell is reached for a couple of swift Guinnesses in the Panmure Arms and then a three course lunch in the cafe. We pop over the road to the little shop and strike up conversations with the ladies, who are an integral part of the event. Supplies are purchased for the campsite and I wander down the Airfield road to the campsite, for the annual lightweight tent exhibition and whisky fest.

A gentler day, but very social!

Where's Wally? (or Alan)

Hello Readers!

I am in Kingussie on the way back to west coast of Scotland, staying with the magnificent Emsleys. I am using Big D's computer to post this as the O2 servers are still not accepting outgoing emails (that's over a week now being unable to send an email to the anyone, let alone blog!

I am assured by the wonderful Debbie at O2 (who is now an avid reader of the blog) that the situation will shortly be back to normal - I sincerely hope so as it takes an age to cut and paste Word documents to emails on the PDA and my next rest day to do this seems a million miles away.

Anyway - I am well and have now done over 1,300 miles and am having a rest day tomorrow at Derek & Marian's here in Kingussie rather than Ft Augustus. With a bit of luck O2 will sort it out tonight so I can post over a week's worth of days tomorrow!

Fund raising is going well (If you have sent / given me a cheque for Sue Ryder that will not appear on the Fund Raising page yet as I have not worked out how to do that yet - perhaps Ian at Sue Ryder can contact me to tell me how to do it?) However, Sue Ryder need more, so dip your hand into your pocket and help me please?

Weather report: LOTS (the capitals are important here) of rain over the last few days & I have been very wet!

All the very best bits to you all!
Alan

(Still) Holding Post!

John Hee popping in to explain Alan's current quietness on the posting front.

Owing to the vagaries of mobile telecommunications he's still unable to post directly to this blog at present.

But by the miracle of other modern technological wonders (A pigeon called McFlurry) we have recieved a situation update here at LEJOG HQ:

He had a late start from Braemar ("it was a heavy night" he says) & hopes to reach the bothy. But maybe not.

He then moves on to Kingussie where he will pick up the replacement Exped Downmat 7 that has been mailed out by Lyon Equipment, who market Exped in the UK.

Alan certainly likes to be comfortable!

Last heard he was heading into Feshie so won't have any mobile contact for the immediate future.

"Normal service" from Alan and O2 (luckily not one of his sponsors from the sound of it) will be resumed at around Kingus.

Hopefully he's finished the TGO Challenge by now. Or else he's missed the end-of-event drink-up, and we don't see Alan missing out on that particular occasion now do we?

Err - as in meeting up with all those TGOers I meant. Not the fact the pub was open.
;-)

Holding Post!

I am sitting in the reception area of the hotel in Fettercairn with, Lordy Lordy! - WIFI!

This post is just to let you know that O2 have screwed up and I cannot email by phone to the blog - but their 'Engineers are working on it!' Well - the blogs are typed and as soon as O2's servers let them out you will get them! - Promise!

DAY 82: Shielin of Mark to Tarfside

Monday 21st May 2007
(Posted from North Water Bridge)
Today: 11.4 miles
Total so far: 1189.7 miles
Percentage Completed: 71.2%

(Click map to enlarge)

There was a hard frost in the night and I woke with the sun climbing over Mount Keen well before 6:00am. Before long the tent was warming up and I was packed, and walking by 6:20.

I am rarely the first away from the Shielin on the Challenge, so this was a novelty for me, but I was soon on top of Muckle Cairn looking back to views of the Shielin with Lochnagar as a magnificent backdrop.

Looking back to Shielin of Mark & Lochnagar

Clambering down the short heather I put up a grouse leaving her six little chicks squeaking madly and running in every direction. Moments later I noticed over a hundred deer standing, looking at me from a mile away down the glen to my left. One made a move and within moments the entire herd was gathering pace to follow, collecting outliers from other parts of the glen as they went. Within half a minute they had all vanished.

Having reached Glen Lee, I was then within feet of an oystercatcher sitting with her back to me the other side of the wall. I stood silently and she started, and sped off, leaving three perfect little dappled eggs on her very makeshift nest of twigs and gravel. I quite like this early start business - I have never seen so much wildlife in such a short space of time.

I made Tarfside for a late breakfast then relaxed into the rest of the day off. Before too long Challengers were pouring in from the Shielin, Clova, Dinnet, Ballater and Clova; all enjoying the camaraderie of the event. Some had not seen each other for years, but their conversations picked up from where they left off last time.

The new Challengers were welcomed into the event - by now they are hardened veterans of the struggle across the wild country of Scotland and the parties are starting that will continue all the way to the east coast.

DAY 81: Lochcallater Lodge to Shielin of Mark

Sunday 20th May 2007
(Posted from North Water Bridge)
Today: 15.6 miles
Total so far: 1178.3 miles
Percentage Completed: 70.6%

(Click map to enlarge)

Today is Lynnie's Birthday and our wedding anniversary but there is no signal on the phone. The flowers arrived yesterday, after a bit of a performance with Interflora, so my guilt is slightly lessened at being away for Lynnie's birthday for yet another year.

Bill dons his chef's hat once more and a magnificent breakfast is prepared and gratefully wolfed down. I am in surprisingly good shape and I am away before 9:30 - a record for me after staying at Stan's!

I am not sure what the weather is doing so I follow my intended route and leave my options open until after Carn an t-Sagairt Mor. The path up is newly repaired and a beauty and I positively whizz up the hill and am soon dropping down to the bealach. There are stinging little showers coming in from the west, but the tops remain clear, so I head off to Cairn Bannoch on a good path, an airy perch with magnificent views in every direction.

Then I am off to Broad Cairn - aptly named - and stop in the lee of the top to have the pasta I bought in Braemar. The walk off the top east to the pony hut is a rocky scramble - one I would not like to have tried for the first time in bad weather but today is fine and I make out the faint path through the boulders. I have a second lunch on the seat outside the pony hut, finish off my water and head off down Corrie Chash, for no better reason than to see if anyone will be in at Glas-allt-Shiel.

20th May: View from the tops, looking south

20th May View from the tops, looking north

The paths on this newly acquired royal estate are in tip-top condition, and I am down at the Loch in no time at all.

20th May: Loch Muick

I poke my head in at the bothy, and have a Braemar pork pie followed by various Braemar chocolate bars and apples (I will never finish all this food!), sign the Bothy Book and set off again into the bright sunshine and keen wind to make the Visitor's centre at the Spittal of Glenmuick.

This is a fine spot, as it serves hot soup from a vending machine and also, more importantly, has a heated loo!

I avail myself of all the services and then set off up the hill once more for the Shielin of Mark. Straight away I bump into Vicky and Aunty Barbara. They are the stuff that TGO Challenges are built from - Equally charming, good humoured, and built of strong stuff. Aunty Barbara is in her late seventies but camps all across Scotland each year. Her pack weight was getting too much for her this year, so she ditched her Thermarest to save weight. She is made of the right stuff.

The Shielin is well populated with tents and so I pop mine up where the sun will hit early in the morning. The evening is clear and after a doze, around ten, Humph Weightman appears in my doorway and we finish off his excellent flask before he leaves to put up his tent.

Probably one of my best Challenge days for ten years.

Head of Glen Callater 20th May

DAY 80: Braemar to Callater Lodge

Saturday 19th May 2007
(Posted from North Water Bridge)
Today: 8.8 miles
Total so far: 1162.7miles
Percentage Completed: 69.6%

(Click map to enlarge)

Another hot shower to start the day, with extra 'Extra Fresh' deodorant applied to the armpits, in the vain hope it will last until Tarfside.

A showery day, but nothing to do until late afternoon, so I mosey over to the Outdoor Shop to replace my Exped mattress. They only sell skinny Thermarests so I buy one reluctantly and post the Exped home to deal with when I finish the walk. Then a dash over to the whisky shop for a smoky bottle for Stan & Bill and a dash round the supermarket to buy all sorts of food I won't need as I am buying it when I am hungry...

The Fife Arms soon fills up with bright weather worn-faces and excited chatter. Podcast Bob catches me for an interview, happily before I have had too many Guinnesses...

I set myself a witching hour of five o'clock to leave to walk up to Stan's and quite amazingly I am away only half an hour late. Stan & Bill are their usual wonderful selves and I am welcomed into a warm and wonderful fug of happiness and hospitality and soon have a plateful of meat pie and potatoes and a beer and whisky. We settle into the 'Men's Sitting Room' in front of a blazing fire and are there for the night. The Saturday night gathering at Stan's is so much more select!

Bill tries to educate me in the way of Doric witticisms and we listen to the local radio - which is hysterically close to Gregor Fisher's version of Hebridean Radio. The hot news is Mrs McRae's Chickens are loose on the main road so drivers need to take extra care.

I have no idea what time I make my bed, but I am giggling all night.

DAY 79: Linn of Dee to Braemar

Friday 18th May 2007
(Posted Saturday 19th May)
Today: 6.3 miles
Total so far: 1153.9miles
Percentage Completed: 69.1%

(Click map to enlarge)

I was away by 7:45am having packed a dry tent and just as I set off some squally showers came in from the west.

I was quickly in Braemar and soon had the tent up at the campsite, showered with my laundry all nice & fresh. Then I ventured back to town for an all day breakfast. This was followed by an afternoon in the Fife Arms with a nice mix of first-timers, Colin Ibbotson who had done Land's End to John O'Groats and was on his first Challenge, and Andy & Kate; all seem to be having a good crossing.

John Jordan had made pretty good progress from where I had left him at the top of the Tilt and was in Braemar in very quick time, looking fit, so that took a bit of pressure off.

The food in the Fife Arms is pretty dire so I nipped out for fish & chips and then wandered back to the tent for an early evening doze to prepare myself for the proper events of the evening...

However, things don't always go to plan and I next woke up at 7:00 am the next morning, having slept soundly through a pretty rough night by all accounts!

Even though I am now incredibly fit, I am finding that I get quite tired and really do need the rest days. The good thing about incorporating the Challenge in my walk is that on my rest days I am with a whole bunch of people who love the same things as me. The Challenge really is an extraordinary event.

There has been one minor disaster: My Exped 7 Down mattress: A box-wall seam has come adrift, making one of the tubes double sized, so it throws you to one side of the mattress. It is not fixable, so I think it is kaput, so I shall try to replace it.

DAY 78: Blair Atholl to Linn of Dee

Thursday 17th May 2007
Today: 22.5 miles
Total so far: 1147.6miles
Percentage Completed: 68.7%

(Click map to enlarge)

I wandered down to the others at the campsite, to find that they had all gone. Nothing for it but to go and have a breakfast at Pizza in the Park. So it was a tardy 9:45 before I finally set off up the Glen.

A mixture of sunshine & showers blew me towards Braemar and I eventually caught up with Mr Jordan just before Bedford Bridge. We wandered along together up the narrow bit and I helped him pitch his Laserlight, which I can see is quite a nifty little bit of kit, if pitched properly.

John Jordan, Falls of Tarff 17th May

I left JJ at about 5:00pm and scuttled along quite nicely and bumped into numerous Challengers all camped up along the route, but chose to go on past the Linn of Dee and found a perfect little pitch at the junction of the Lui and the Dee amongst the tall pines. I camped between showers, amongst a large herd of deer, who seemed happy to share their spot with me.

I have to say it myself - but today I did okay; from a walking and personal perspective. Sorry about the awkwardness of the map – there were too many other routes on it that would have confused matters even more if I had printed it the right way up!

DAY 77: Rest Day; Blair Atholl

DAY 77: Rest Day; Blair Atholl
In the Company of Giants

 

As the day has worn on, Challengers have made their way in dribs and drabs to the campsite: Ian Shiel, John Jordan, Dave Beaumont, Richard Vickery and friend (sorry - I have forgotten his name). One of my 'Angels', Derek, brought me my food parcel down so I could pick & choose the next meals to get me to the East Coast & back to Kingussie. He brought with him a certain Mike Daniels, who is presently on his 21st Challenge Crossing of Scotland - a giant amongst outdoor folk.

 

Then to bump into Ian and David pitching their tents on the campsite was icing on the cake. Both had met me and helped me along the way on my LEJOG previously, and both have big tales to tell of their walk so far.

 

I then managed to get a call through to Lord Elpus, currently at the Monadhliath Hotel, Laggan, who was characteristically modest about his endeavours with Darren. I hope to get the full story when I meet him at Braemar.

 

John Jordan: 16th May, Blair Aholl

I have the honour of walking with John Jordan tomorrow morning on his way to Braemar. John should be designated a National Monument. He has fought for his country in war-time overseas, and also for it on the home front, serving as an elected representative on a council, rising to be one of the stars of his area.

 

He is a No-Nonsense Man who Gets Things Done. I will not bore you with his amazing medical history. Suffice it to say, that most people with his ailments would have given up the ghost years ago and slipped into anonymity and an early grave. Not this gentleman. When his time comes, he will be found arguing for a second opinion with the coroner. He has life to spare and a spirit that is totally indestructible.

 

I am looking forward to tomorrow immensely.

 

Jack Addison, Blair Atholl

Dave Beaumont: Blair Atholl

Ian Shiel, Blair Atholl

DAY 76: Kinloch Rannoch to Blair Atholl

Tuesday 15th May 2007
Today: 17.5 miles
Total so far: 1125.1miles
Percentage Completed: 67.4%

(Click map to enlarge)

CRIKEY!

Drama! On the Challenge! Dramatic Pause...........

My mate Lord Elpus (aka Phil, husband to Miss Whiplash) has been having adventures with Weird Darren! (see the 'places to visit' at the side of this blog, for Darren's Blog)

It appears that Darren's walking partner, a highly experienced chap, had to drop out of the Challenge the night before he was due to start, leaving poor Darren solo all of a sudden. Phil, being the sort of chap he is, and Darren, being an all round good guy, realised that they could make their second day the same, so they met up at Tarbet on North Morar.

Now, as I understand it, and I have only had this from Miss Whiplash over the electronic telephone apparatus in my hotel room late last night ("What was he doing talking to other chap's wives late at night", I here you ask!!!) Darren suffered a recurrent bout of the flu he has been suffering from over the last month or so, which totally incapacitated him. Phil stayed with him for a day or so until the food ran out and Darren was getting in a worse state, totally incapable of keeping either food or water down and getting weaker all the time.

The weather was getting shitty, so Phil took the grid reference and shot off to get help. As I understand it, this was no mean feat in itself as they were miles from anywhere and it took a while and quite a bit of drama, for Phil to flag a car down to organise Darren's safe removal from the hill. The Mountain Rescue team advised a helicopter, and so poor Darren was airlifted out to Ft William hospital, where, the last I have heard, he is on a drip recovering from his ordeal.

So - my heartfelt best wishes go out to Darren and a huge round of applause to Phil for being an all round Super Hero (the Capitals Are Very Important Here!)

My own day pales into insignificance in comparison, but in brief - I left the wonderful hotel at ten, promptly bumped into Jeff, Colin & Andrew, had a coffee over the road from my hotel, and left again at eleven and made wonderful speedy progress to be in Blair Atholl by 5:15pm - having walked with the wind beneath my feet and sunshine on my shoulders.

I am camped up at the very precious Campsite at the Castle (the best Wanda has been pitched in her life!) and am now in the pub posting all these blogs to you all. I am drinking a very palatable pint or so of Moulin (a pretty beer.)

As I am now a whole day ahead of my schedule, I am taking a rest day tomorrow, or I won't see any of the other Challengers! Also, the Magnificent Derek is bringing me a food parcel tomorrow, so I shall not starve. Speaking of starvation: I seem to be wasting away! I took a look at myself in the hotel bathroom mirror yesterday evening - I look sort of the same but thinner. I shall try to weigh myself for the all important statistics. Having said that, I think my feet are getting bigger...

Oh well....

Looking up Glen Tilt (tomorrow's walk)

DAY 75: Bridge of Gaur to Kinloch Rannoch

Monday 14th May 2007
Today: 12.5 miles
Total so far: 1107.6miles
Percentage Completed: 66.3%

(Click map to enlarge)

I could have kicked myself for getting ahead of my schedule: I woke to glorious blue skies with fluffy clouds, Wanda Warmlite becoming too hot inside to hang around. If I had had the afternoon off yesterday at Gorton Bothy, I would now be handily placed for a glorious hillwalk. As it was, I found myself a dozen or so miles from Kinloch Rannoch with just a pretty little road walk.

Sometimes it goes that way.

As it happened, the day deteriorated and by the afternoon, when I was tucked up in the Dunalastair Hotel, the clouds rolled in and it was back to more rain, so the tops would have been a bit dismal and wet after all.

This hotel is a corker! Fur coat and no drawers! It all works, but the boiler seems to be my next door neighbour and makes a noise like a maniac with a medicine ball sent to the cooler (Great Escape). Ah - I take that all back - as I have just been moved to a splendid new quiet room. The restaurant is a corker too! Excellent menu and unfortunately they don't do half bottles, so I will just have to struggle with a big one of Vacqueyras. Quite Splendid!

Still no signal on the phone (Emergency Calls only) so this will be posted, along with all the others for the Challenge, hopefully from Blair Atholl tomorrow.

As a bemused aside: Why is it that when I travel abroad, my phone always chooses a network, but when O2 cannot provide me with one in my own country and obviously another provider can (I have four bars of signal strength) our own British providers won't let me use the competitions' network? Am I missing something here?

DAY 74: Forest Lodge to Bridge of Gaur

Sunday 13th May 2007 (Posted from Blair Atholl)
Today: 20.0 miles
Total so far: 1095.1 miles
Percentage Completed: 65.6%

(Click map to enlarge)

I had picked a great spot to camp, as in the morning, despite no wind there were no midges. However it was drizzling, so I was away smartish and was soon strolling alongside Loch Tulla, with the weather coming and going.

Skirting the southern side of Rannoch Moor I followed the track up to Gorton Bothy in worsening weather with a few gushy little river crossings and was glad of its shelter for a lunch of cuppa-soup (I just love them) and flapjack; a well rounded repast.

This had been my intended overnight stop but as it was still only just past two o'clock I headed out into the rain again to make for the railway, first having to negotiate a precarious bridge which was just the longitudinal beams and no bridge-deck, so a bit of a nervous one for me, with a fair drop down to the river.

The weather ruled out in my mind any thought of pinching the hills on my route to the north of Glen Lyon, so I hot footed it along the rails and into the forest for my 'foul weather alternative' (the red squares on the map.)

Forest walking is never great, so I just chugged along until I got the the bridge above Bridge of Gaur, plonked the rucksack down and made camp. Another 20 mile day, not seeing another Challenger. Not a flicker of a phone signal all day, so this will have to be posted at a later date.

DAY 73: Cadderlie Bothy to Forest Lodge

Saturday 12th May 2007
Today: 21.0 miles
Total so far: 1075.1 miles
Percentage Completed: 64.4%

(Click map to enlarge)

The midges were out in force this morning, so we packed everything up in the bothy and Sammy & I were away by 8am to follow the loch-side track up to the head of Loch Etive, where we were going to go our separate ways. The track is a bit of a switchback but we were both in fine form.

Sammy Hackett beside Loch Etive

At the end of the loch there had obviously been a bit of a party, as tents were pitched all over the shop, a garden marquee had been erected with sound gear inside, and bonfires were everywhere with groups of young professionals (judging from the cars they drove) standing about waiting for their sausages to cook. We moved on to an abandoned fire still burning - with live wood from trees in the fire, beer boxes, plastic bottles, bags; all just left for someone else to sort out.

Presumably they came here for the magnificent beauty of the place, and they were doing their very best to destroy what they had come to see.

View from climbing the bealach

I headed over the river and then headed up the hill to the bealach, with clouds and showers gathering as I slowly made my way up between two Munros to about 740m. The going wasn't too bad and with a bit of an effort I made the top at about 4:00pm as the clouds were building ominously behind me.

I squelched carefully down the steep headwall of the corrie the other side and then over its lip and down again to the shielings. It was all tussock & bog all the way down to the bridge at the bottom of the valley; very hard going.

According to my schedule, I could have camped here, but I decided to carry on to Loch Dochard to see if David had made it to his proposed overnight spot, but when I got there, there was no-one about, so I trudged on a bit to the bridge at Clashgour and met up with Chris & Anne from the Backpackers Club already camped up. It was an incredibly midgey spot so I walked on until about 8:00pm and stopped half a mile short of Victoria Bridge on a lovely bit of sheep nibbled grass for a quiet night.

So, about 10km longer than planned, but a great day.

DAY 72: Oban to Cadderlie Bothy

Friday 11th May 2007 (Posted from Blair Atholl)
Today: 20.0 miles
Total so far: 1054.1 miles
Percentage Completed: 63.1%

(Click map to enlarge)

A sensible start from Oban Youth Hostel (a magnificent affair) as St Columba's Cathedral struck nine o'clock and we tumbled into town to stock up on fresh pies, bread & cheese for the day's lunch.

I was walking with the Rev, and Sam Hackett, a Challenge stalwart whose legs could easily hold up professional snooker tables. We fairly scampered along with all the enthusiasm of first-timers and within no time were at the parting of the ways with The Rev, who was heading for the fleshpots of Taynuilt. Sammy and I followed the railway up and over on an easy going track to Connel, where we hunted out a good hotel for a silver pot of coffee and platefuls of quality biscuits.

A grandfather clock in the corner of the room rang the quarter hours with a deep melodic chime. The place was a time capsule. The hotel could have been the Officers' Mess for aircrew - you almost expected Tubby Grimshaw to burst through the door, flying scarf at a jaunty angle, exclaiming that Spiffer Wilson had bought it over the Channel, but he had bagged three Jerries on the way down.

All good things come to an end though, so we hoisted our rucksacks and headed back along the road to the Connel Bridge - an engineering tour-de-force and waited to view the Falls of Lorne, which did not materialize as the tide was coming into the loch.

The afternoon was spent sampling an '83 Port Ellen and a fine Glenmorangie at various halts on the north shore of Loch Etive. The weather held out and we made the bothy at 5:30 to pitch the tents amongst the midges and dive into the bothy to make supper.

We joined Colin, Andrew and Jeff, who were already there (cf 'Police Squad')

Not a bad start to the year's RAB TGO Challenge.