Saturday, 19 August 2017

TGOC2017 Days 13 & 14: Airlie Tower to Red Castle

It's a bittersweet start to the day; this morning we are leaving the hills behind, with a thirty mile walk ahead of us across some surprisingly pretty countryside on our quest for the east coast. We're splitting it over two days, with a Bed and Breakfast at Letham tonight.





We make a hash of finding the road through the woods at the bottom of the hill but there's no better way to get the blood pumping than a bit of bushwhacking. It's now a simple matter of putting one foot in front of the other and remembering our lefts and rights. The roads are quiet hereabouts and lined with trees resplendent in their fresh frock coats.

Switching on my autopilot I revert to my old friend, the skull cinema again. I love this Paul Simon song and now, with time on my hands I ponder the poignancy of these particular lines for this year's Challenge.

'And I don't know a soul who's not been battered
I don't have a friend who feels at ease
I don't know a dream that's not been shattered or driven to its knees
But it's alright, it's alright
For we've lived so well so long
Still, when I think of the road we're traveling on
I wonder what's gone wrong
I can't help it, I wonder what's gone wrong...'

And with the tune fading away we come across one of the many war memorials scattered throughout the British Isles, and beyond; Each man missed dreadfully by his family for years after. Every year our politicians stand respectfully at the Cenotaph and the very next day continue with their warmongering.

We arrive in Forfar for lunch and on the walk in try to remember Eric Morecambe's dream football result, to have been read out by James Alexander Gordon: "East Fife Four, Forfar Five".

A good lunch just off the High Street followed by cashpoint machines for the B&B and the cafe after our finish. Suitably fettled we're on our way again. Our next stop is a bench, promised to me by Lord Elpus, who has been this way on his long diagonal across Scotland from Torridon to Arbroath back in 2011. The plaque tells of an early Scottish tribal victory over an English tribe. Lord Elpus has more about it on his excellent account HERE. It's well worth reading, by the way.

Nowhere is serving food on a Wednesday night in Letham so after a few quick pints in the pub David magics a takeaway which we have in the kitchen. It's an early night tonight because tomorrow night there's going to be a party and we need to be on top form.


In all my years crossing Scotland I'm ashamed to say I've never eaten a Bridie. This is put right this morning with the purchase of a steak bridie from the Keptie Bakery in Letham. Their bridies have won a gold award at the Scotch Pie Championship in 2014.

I have to say it was bloody wonderful, and I shall be seeking them out for evermore. It fueled me to the brim for the twelve or so miles to the coast.

There's a beautiful churchyard, well worth a stop, at Inverkeilor where the above photograph of Rufty-Tufty Mr Williams is taken. The day has turned out to be a scorcher and the shade is a welcome respite. 

Finally we stroll down the beach to the water's edge. The ruined Red Castle looks down at us as it has done for so many Challengers over the years.

A few words about Mr Williams. Phil returning to Strathcarron on the first day had been one hell of a shock to me. In one stroke the dynamics of the walk had changed. Neither Phil nor I knew David particularly well, and I'm sure David felt the same about Phil and me. We had bumped into him quite a few times over the years and he had always been a bright, smiley chap with a keen wit. We both had him down as made of the right stuff: Perfect Challenger material, in fact.

Over the two weeks of this Challenge and the preceding PreWalkDaunder, which he had organised incredibly well, I think I've only scratched the surface trying to get to know him. From the stories he has shared with me he's a massively principled, bloody hard-working bright guy. He goes out of his way to make everyone around him comfortable - a skill that seems to come effortlessly to him.

He's as tough as old boots typified by our walk to the Airlie Memorial Tower when I was doggedly hanging on. But most of all, he's great fun to walk with.

In his last blog piece on this walk, he says he's unlikely to come back on the Challenge. I wish over the next few weeks he rethinks that. The walk will be a poorer thing without him. The Challenge, as you'll have seen from this blog isn't just about grinding out long days against tight schedules. It can be riotous fun, wonderfully relaxing and a fantastic de-stresser for those who find responsibility thrust their way. Your only responsibility on the Challenge is to yourself, to make sure you have a bloody  good time.

And for that, David is supremely well equipped.

Thanks David, for being a top bloke and making our walk such a success. And please, think again!

Here are some tractors for Alan Rayner, found at Red Castle.

The pictures above are from the Challenge Dinner at the Park Hotel. Every single one of these characters is made of the right stuff. 


  1. What a superb read this has been Alan. I'm going to back and read it all again.

    1. Thank you, Gibson.
      This blog and the TGO Challenge have introduced me to a whole host of wonderful people.
      You're right up there, Sir.

  2. Great stuff Alan, I enjoyed your journey. Thanks for the tractor pics. The 1st is Fordson and the 2nd is an International Harvestor 354 from around 1971.

    1. I'm glad of that, Sir.
      So then. The six billion dollar question...
      When we see you two next on the Challenge?

  3. That was a rather fine finishing blog boss. And I agree, Mr Williams will be sadly missed, he is without a shadow of a doubt a thoroughly lovely bloke.
    I am also liking this finish.
    Should I ever do the challenge again, I must venture south of Montrose... ☺

    1. If you intend finishing saarff of the river (North Esk, that is) you'll need the password.
      A gentleman that goes by the name of Croydon will be able to furnish you with that. He's an expert on all fings saarff or the river.

  4. Thanks for sharing, Alan. I've enjoyed reading your blog over the last few weeks although I've done so rather hurriedly. As the nights draw in, I'll get my feet up and read them again at a more leisurely pace. Great humour and lots of information! Cheers

    1. Thank you and welcome to my blog, Paul.

  5. Well, what a cracking read that was. Once the kids have gone solo and I can use my holidays for my own indulgences I'll be taking up the TGO challenge. I've read so many wonderful accounts, lets hope my knees are still in one piece (or however many pieces make up two knees)
    Great tune to sign off as well, one of my favourites. Sad to see that Roy Orbison had passed on when the video was made and of course George Harrison is now gone, great loss to music

    1. Hi, Andy.
      The problem with the TGO Challenge is that it is extremely addictive. Might be an idea to bring your wife along, or there will be years of living apart for a fortnight.


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