Private Secret Diary: TGO Challenge 2018: Ardnamurchan Point to Kinnaber Links, Direct! DAY 0

The road from the Corran Ferry to Ardnamurchan Point must be classed as one of the most beautiful drives in Britain. On a bright, sparkling day and taken at a leisurely pace this would be a Challenge highlight.

However, when taken at breakneck speed in a minibus driven by Pedro going for a personal best it's an altogether different experience. It was five very queasy passengers that thanked God they had arrived in one piece that alighted at the most western cafe on mainland Britain.

Phil gave the homicidal maniac a tip; Drive for your customers' enjoyment, not your own and you'll get a better tip.

But were we down-hearted?

No!

We were on holiday and at one of the most perfect spots (in a Clarksonian voice please) In. The. World! For the next two weeks there would be Adventures, Jollity, Happiness, Good Chums (thank you Mr Floyd) and who knows, perhaps the odd schism or two with the chance of meeting old and new friends on the way across Scotland.

NOTHING BUT SEA & FISH FOR TWO THOUSAND MILES ALL THE WAY TO NEWFOUNDLAND

Before the invention of the telegraph this horn, painted red as it was the hotline of the day, was the only means of communicating with our American cousins. Compressed air was pumped to the very top of the tower (see below) to give added thrust to discussions. Similar relay stations were built along the coasts of North America and Britain to speed messages from His Majesty at Windsor to his subjects in the colonies.

ANDREW MARVELS AT THIS EARLY COMMUNICATION HUB

But that was then, and this is now, or as Marlowe put is so succinctly, "but that was in another country; And besides, the wench is dead." We were busy, recording more images on our cameras and smartphones that would be taken on the entire trip. 

The photographs you will see in this series of blog posts are a rich and happy amalgam of Lord E's, Mad'n'Bad's, my own and various other Challengers' pictures that I have unapologetically snaffled for your amusement. I've had to fettle a few of them so I hope the original snappers don't mind too much.

MUCK, RUM & EIGG BACKDROP

Below you'll see the mortal remains of the minibus ride from Fort William, each enjoying a bracing nor-westerly blast from the ever-diminishing (koff) Greenland ice sheet. They could have been tucked up in the warm and very friendly cafe at this point, but they suffered for my art.

MAD'N'BAD, LORD ELPUS, LYNSEY & JOHN, WITH A MUCK & RUM BACKDROP

DEAF AS A POST LORD E BRAVES THE HORN.

The exhibit below fell to earth in the late eighteenth century. If you look carefully you can make out the ghostly impression of the interstellar passenger within.

A TRICK OF THE LIGHT?

And here are the mighty Victorian pumps that pressurised the Tower.

IT'S SAID THAT YOU CAN STILL HEAR THE SCREAMS OF THE CHILDREN WHO FED THESE LEVIATHANS

Andrew took the picture below. It's entitled 'Newfoundland'. If you squint...

And now we come to the interesting stuff: I've lifted the paragraph below from the website of the Ardnamurchan Natural History Visitor Centre:

The whole north western corner of Ardnamurchan contains a complex of underground volcanic structures, often described, perhaps inaccurately, as a caldera. It is in fact known that the structure of the north-western corner of the Ardnamurchan peninsula is due to a lopolith (previously interpreted as a ring dyke) which has been exposed at the surface. Evidence for a lopolith is seen in rock exposures in the area which show plagioclase crystals aligned towards the centre of the complex, an alignment caused by magmatic flow within a lopolith. Relatively small areas of lava that were ejected onto the surface are found in some parts of the peninsula. At least seven other similar complexes of the same tectonic episode are dotted up the west coast of Britain, and these are popular sites for many university geological training courses. Geological research is continuing in the area. The sub-concentric rings of the volcanic complex can easily be seen in satellite photographs and topographic maps, though they are less obvious on the ground.

The geological map shows these structures quite well. Mr Turley and Mr Earp (the best Geography and Geomorphology teachers ever!) would be proud of me.

CLICK TO ENLARGE

And here's the view looking north eastwards towards the most achingly beautiful piece of Britain. At this point in the proceedings we decided that it was far too cold for any more photography and it was time for our cafe treat. 

Go to Ardnamurchan. If not for the wonderful fresh air, dramatic seascapes, fabulous landscapes then for the cafe itself. This is how cafes should be. Excellent cake, fresh ground coffee, strong tea and a good selection of lemonades, ginger ales and all manner of old fashioned provender.

We emerged, stuffed to the gunnels, and happy. The walk this afternoon would have the sun on our shoulders and the wind to our backs.Here's the first map of this year's blog posts, carried safely across Scotland and home.

TODAY'S ROUTE CLICK TO ENLARGE

The next picture shows the way ahead, leading away eastwards, and from it you can see the quite amazing rock structure - lopolith - of this part of the peninsula.  Thanks, Andy, for a cracking picture.

CLICK TO ENLARGE

This happy band trundled along, with full packs, I might add, following the wonderful single track road that weaves between rocky outcrops, taking the line of least resistance, with the occasional little climb to the next beautiful section of scenery.

We came across a few inquisitive locals, eager to hear the news from that London and beyond. Andrew did his best to fill them in, but they stared back blankly when he told them that 'Brexit means Brexit.' 

BREXIT MEANS WHAT???

The locals are an enterprising friendly lot.

Suitably chastened by the porcine Sage, we headed off, tails between our legs to clamber up the side of the lopolith's rim, tumbling through, over and up rough ground, for gorgeous views southwards to the Isle Of Mull, where the Pieman and friends were currently stationed, working their way through the top shelf whiskies. John, a lovely chap and great company, had left us a little earlier, to scale tall fences to take in the north coast of Ardnamurchan, a connoisseur's route that sadly we had to miss to remain within the strict parameters of our 10km corridor. Another time. Definitely.

 

MAD'N'BAD LOOKING OVER THE SEA TO MULL: CLICK TO ENLARGE

It was then simply a matter of tumbling back down to the happy little tarmac roller-coaster and a very pleasant stroll to our Start Point, the Kilchoan Hotel, where we would enjoy a fine evening in the excellent company of fellow Challengers.

Day Zero was done, in fine walking weather. The forecast for tomorrow, however, was pretty grim. But we had had this excellent start safely tucked away in our back pockets, to remind us just how fabulous Scotland can be when dressed in its finest weather and scenery, that would get us through any torrid times.


And in the spirit of Old Mortality: