TGO Challenge 2019: DAY TWO

One of the reasons for stopping short of Glenfinnan yesterday was so that we could have a gentle stroll downhill in the morning and snaffle breakfast at the Station Buffet. This makes for a very civilised start to the day. And because we're 'Ard. And because I had realised when planning the walk that yesterday might just be a bit of a bastard. Good call, I say.

STARTING TO PACK

The shelters were smeared in a thin layer of ice this morning and Phil noticed that his new booties were also iced up. Lorks! 

Not having to prepare breakfast, we were away quite smartly and as we were passing the first hotel in Glenfinnan an awfully nice man leaned out of an upstairs window and told us of his wonderful dinner the night before, his sumptuous bed and his breakfast of smoked haddock. 

However, notwithstanding his fine dining, Alistair very quickly joined us in the buffet car for his second cooked breakfast. This place is a little gem.

THE MAN IN SEAT 61

Next stop was the Glenfinnan Visitor Centre. Just as we arrived the LaBorwitts were seen heading off eastwards. As usual on most of our Challenges, they were ahead of us. 

You may have noticed that yesterday Phil was sporting a rather trendy piece of headgear - a TGO Challenge buff. This was because he had either lost or had forgotten or he had quite possibly cooked and eaten his beautiful TGO Challenge cap when in his cups and had the munchies. However, the sartorially svelte Lord E really was not happy with this new headgear and so while he was browsing the menswear section of the Visitor Centre shop for a replacement cap, I took the opportunity for nabbing a second breakfast in the cafe. They had rather good flapjack and cakes. This was washed down with a tolerable coffee in a paper cup.

You may have guessed already, but the Front Three were by now getting a trifle twitchy as time was ticking along quite nicely. A few American backpackers who we believed were Challengers showed up but by now the Visitor Centre was filling up with bus-loads of tourists of all nationalities, and all keen to see Harry Potter's viaduct. None seemed interested in the memorial to the Jacobite Rising... 

Not being one to share his pleasures with hordes of the great unwashed, resplendent in his new blue felt cap proudly bearing SCOTLAND above the peak, Phil pronounced that it was time to get on with the day. He had provided us with a splendid route on a boardwalk through the trees that led to a forestry track, which meant that we could avoid a mile or so of road walking as we headed towards Gleann Fionnlighe. 

It was as we were walking eastwards along the quite fast A830 that one of these beauties came towards us and a Police Officer in the front passenger seat shouted at the Front Three to "Get off the Road!" The Front Three were in single file about a hundred yards in front of us and sure enough a moment or so later the same Police Officer leaned out of her window with the car almost stationary and delivered the same message in the same manner to me. 

I answered in a firm but polite tone, "No." 

The grass verge was incredibly rough and overgrown and there was far more likelihood of stumbling into the road from tripping and getting squished by oncoming traffic than walking close to the verge on a smooth surface. We could see oncoming traffic well in advance and always had the option of diving onto the verge should any vehicle pass by too closely.  

With that, the Volvo sped off, no doubt to harass another poor pedestrian. We continued happily on our way to our turn-off where we had an early lunch in the sunshine.

A VERYVERYNICEMAN

AN EVEN NICER FELLOW WITH MAD'N'BAD

LAST MAN ON THE ROPE

As we strolled up Gleann Fionnlighe the Front Three suddenly became no more. Alastair hared off to climb Gulvain as it is a Munro, and Andy decided he would take the Andy Alternative Fair Weather Route (designed just for him - I am a poppet) up the western spur of Meall Onfhaidh. This left David, Phil & me to amble alongside the Fionn Lighe, which was surprisingly hard work. 

THE FIONN LIGHE

LOOKING BACK DOWN GLEANN FIONNLIGHE

We were at the point where we had to climb up to the shallow bealach between Meall Onfhaidh and Meall a' Phubuill that I called a rest. I needed a bit of fuel and coolant to get me up this one. David seemed to be doing really well but Phil and I were bushed. Phil mooted perhaps stopping here as there was good ground for the shelters. David was keen to press on as Andy would be at the bothy and might worry if we did not show up. So David set off in very good order up the hill. The Two at the Back decided to have some more to eat and drink until we agreed that perhaps it was best if we continued on to the bothy. None of us are getting any younger... 

It was a bit of a slog to the bealach across a rough hillside in humid weather. We had another really good rest at the top, drinking our recently refilled water bottles dry. Thinking back, we'd simply been dehydrated. It's so easy to do in warm weather when you're working hard.

LORD ELPUS, A NEW CAP, ON THE BEALACH

As we set off again along the track (not marked in the OS 1:50k maps) disaster struck. One of my brand new Black Diamond walking poles literally fell to pieces. I scavenged as many parts as I could from the heather, grass and mud that I could see and stuffed them inside my pack. Walking with one pole is distinctly unpleasant. Out of balance, and out of sorts we finally made it to Glensulaig Bothy. 

Both Andy and David's tents were there, on beautifully nibbled flat grass. But they had been superstars and had cleared all the sheep and cattle shit away, leaving pristine pitches for very knackered walkers. I think I might have been too tired to thank them properly. Andy had been here for ages and David, slowed up by the Two at the Back had also been here a fair while too.

As we were recovering with a few glasses of lung inflator we discovered that Lou & Phyllis were making themselves comfortable in the bothy. Ahead of us again. Situation normal.

TOGETHER AGAIN. BEAUTIFUL WEATHER AT GLENSULAIG BOTHY